Keep Blackstone
Valley Beautiful Composting Guide
Factors affecting
compost:
- Surface area/particle
size: more surface area, the more available material there
is for decomposers. Cutting up materials to 1” diameter will
quicken the decomposition process. Pieces are too small =
not enough aeration. You can shred leaves, for instance,
under your lawn mower before composting
- Pile size: large enough to
hold heat and moisture, small enough to that materials are
aerated throughout. Optimal size: 3 x 3 x 3, max size 5 x 5
x 5
- Oxygen/Aeration: Without
oxygen, it will start to smell. Air is necessary to keep the
decomposers at work.
However, you can do a pile without air (without turning) but
it will be a much slower process. Aerobic composting is 90%
faster than anaerobic processes and will not smell.
Anaerobic is a slower process, produces ammonia-like
substances, methane and hydrogen sulfide and a rotten-egg
smell.
- Moisture: around 50% is
ideal – similar to a rung out sponge. Moist to touch, but
cannot squeeze liquid out. Shape of the pile can help
shed/absorb moisture
- Temperature: high
temperatures help speed up the composting process. Ideal
temp – 90-160F
3 different methods of composting:
- Cold:
Unassisted decomposition of organic matter – slow
process that takes 1-2 years. It occurs at a lower
temperature so it does not destroy pathogens or weeds
Cold set-up: consolidate materials into a pile, turn
infrequently (once every couple of months to once a
year), remove finished compost as needed once in is
cured (dark, crumbly and earthy smelly) – usually from
the bottom
- Warm:
Moderately managed decomposition that produces compost
in 6-8 weeks. Will not reach temperatures high enough to
kill pathogens and weed weeds.
Warm set up: create piles or build/buy holding unit for
materials. Turn pile once a week, monitor temperature
(should increase above ambient temperature), allow
compost to cure before use (temperature should return to
ambient temperature)
- Hot: demands
maximum effort in construction and maintenance, fastest
composting method (can take as little as 2 weeks), kills
most pathogenic organisms and weed seeds if temperature
reaches at least 140 degrees F.
Hot set-up:
Highest level of effort and expense, yields quickest
results. Chop/shred materials, turn pile every 3 days,
moisten added materials & monitor moisture level.
Temperature should peak at 120-160 in 4-7 days),
maintain 30:1 carbon to nitrogen ratio, allow compost to
age additional 2 weeks.
Carbon to Nitrogen
ratio (“greens” to “browns”)
• Determines how easily
bacteria can decompose organic material
• Optimal C:N ratio = 30:1, lots of science behind it
• Optimal ratio + higher temperatures = faster decomposition
• Control ratio by carrying what you put in the pile
• 3 parts brown to 1 part green
Carbon -
brown materials – 3 parts
- Straw, hay, cornwstalks
- Shredded cardboard, paper
- Woody pruning, wood
shavings, sawdust (from non-pressure treated or painted
wood)
- Autumn leaves, dry leaves
- Vacuum cleaner bags and
contents
- Vegetarian manure (ex:
cow)
Nitrogen –
green materials – 1 part
- Fruit & veggie trimmings
- Coffee grounds & paper
filters, tea bags
- Non-diseased, expired
plants
- Seaweed, clam mussel,
shrimp, lobster shells
- Grass clippings
- Egg shells
DO NOT
Compost
- Diseased/infested plants
- Pesticide/herbicide
treated plants or grass clippings
- Weds with
seeds/reproducing parts
- Poisonous plants – poison
ivy, etc
- Grease, fats
- Barbeque briquettes
- Food waste cooked with
sauces/butter
- Meats, fish, poultry,
bones
- Oily foods (peanut butter)
- Horse or pig manure
- Dog or cats feces, cat
litter
- Inorganic waste (glass,
metal, plastic)
- Ashes (highly alkaline)
Troubleshooting materials and compost bin problems
- Compost should always
smell earthy
- If smells of rotten eggs,
put more browns in
- Grass – spread in thin
layers or it will clump together and produce odor
- Pine needles and oak
leaves – have waxy coating that it tough to break down. If
you are hot composting, shred before putting in your bin.
How to use
your finished compost
- A month or so before
planting
- When transplanting
- For mulching
- Spread over garden in the
fall to lay your bed to rest
- In potted plants
Compost bins
- Can be 3 sided for easy
access
- Can be built out of
chicken wire and garden stakes (3 ft)
- Can be a pile
- Can use old pallets
- Caution when using
pressure treated wood
- Makes sure it is at least
3 x 3 x 3 but no more than 5 x 5 x 5
- You can also buy compost
bins
- Tools: shredder, lawn
mower, water can/hose, manure fork or pitch fork,
thermometer
- Can be a continuous bin or
a batch bin
Worm
composting (vermicomposting)
- Feeding kitchen scraps and
other organic wastes to worms kept in an aerated container
- Worms produce castings
that can be used as compost
Composting
Resources
Worm
composting
Worm ladies of Charlestown –
buy a pound of worms for $20
angoraandworms@cox.net
www.angoraandworms.com
Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary
Appelhof
MSN Kids: “The Yuckiest Site on
the Internet” http://yucky.kids.discovery.com
Workshop presented today by:
Kristin Zawistowski, Master
Composter & Recycler
Keep Blackstone Valley Beautiful coordinator
AmeriCorps*VISTA member
Blackstone Valley Tourism Council
175 Main Street, Pawtucket, RI 02860
401-724-2200
Kristin@tourblackstone.com
www.keepblackstonevalleybeautiful.com
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